Donatello's.

 

It is no exaggeration to say that Donatello's is a major Brighton Institution.

Opened back in 1987, it has increased in size and reputation ever since. When we went this last Saturday evening it was heaving with eager clients. Even though we had booked a table we were obliged to wait for about 15 minutes for that table to become available. It was a beautiful warm evening and 'The Lanes' was buzzing.

The restaurant itself is on three floors. I believe it seats about 300 diners and has a staff of over 100. On a busy night (like Saturday) each table probably has three successive lots of diners and continues well into the night. Tables also spill outside onto the small busy square beyond.

We ate and drank liberally, and everything was of an extremely high standard. We started with a simple Tomato bruschetta, and a couple of plates of Calamaris. Our main courses were the reason for going, they offer Mussels in a creamy white wine sauce (Cozze marinara) as a starter, but my son (Kimbo) being a man of impeccable taste ordered it as a main course for each of us, the servings having been trebled in size. It was really delicious. A variety of decadent deserts finished off a superb meal. We drank both pink and red wines.

Rarely have I visited a restaurant where the staff work so hard and efficiently. Everything was perfect.

When you next visit Brighton (which I presume you will very soon) it is worth remembering the name Donatello's. Mid-week you might possibly get a table without booking, but at the weekend no chance.

For four hungry and appreciative diners the cost was under £150. No complaints there.

Verdict: 10/10. I should mention that whilst mid-meal someone somewhere started singing 'Happy Birthday', and the whole 300 diners joined in.... it was a superb moment.