It's not fire season quite yet, but there's now't wrong with being prepared.
It was a fine sunny day yesterday, so as Lady Magnon clipped the Leylandii hedge, I set to with my trusty Husqvarna and axe, and made a start on the huge pile of Chestnut tree trunks I bought last year.
I think I need a humidity meter for my wood. I've seen one advertised for about €50; I wonder if it's worth it? Do you use one?
Wood simply doesn't burn properly if it contains over 20% humidity; ideally it should contain between 15 and 20% moisture to burn correctly. The above wood has been drying for about 3 or 4 years, but the interior still felt quite dampish.
I think a meter could come in handy. Any advice?
I am so sorry that the first comment here is from one who never used or had to burn trees in the winter.There is no great help in my comment . I am also waiting for the winter to come.ReplyDelete
Our mornings are beginning to be cool (7C yesterday), but we are still swimming in the afternoons. Perfect time to prepare for what's to come.Delete
I've always gone by feel and instinct - in fact didn't realise there was a gadget to take the guesswork out.ReplyDelete
And they don't come cheap.Delete
That solves it then - keep using feel and instinct!!!ReplyDelete
Our logs are kept dry and undercover so we don't seem to have this problem. Perhaps you should build a log store.ReplyDelete
We've been talking about exactly that.... I don't know why we haven't done it before.Delete
Air dried timber needs bark removed and a minimum of one inch all around each piece and does not need to be protected from the rain. In actual fact rain is beneficial in that it washes the sap out of the wood. The general time for dried timber is one year x per one inch of thickness. Storing timber undercover when full of sap creates rot mould and slows the drying process.ReplyDelete
I used to build wooden boats which is why I know all about the process of drying timber.
The huge pile of logs has been open to the elements for a few years, but is now covered on top. Some of the bigger trunks (about 5ft circumference) I shall keep a while longer. I'm still not sure if my split wood was either just cold, or wet.Delete
I am surprised that you haven't had the 5ft dia trunks turned into planks ?ReplyDelete
For they might come in handy for your barn conversion.
I have plenty of 2 metre tree trunks that would make good planks, but it's getting them to the sawmill that's the tricky bit.Delete
Put as much up of it as you can for old Putin is sure to shut off the gas pipes this winter. As for moisture meters I have seen some quite inexpensive ones on ebay. No telling if they work well or if they are just cheap Chinese junk.ReplyDelete
I'll have a look around. €50 seemed too much.Delete
Season wood for three to five years preferably on a windswept hill.ReplyDelete
What a coincidence that you should mention the humidity meter, my eldest son lives in Ayr Scotland and lights his stove very early in the year has just bought one of these on the advice of the chap who fitted another stove for him.ReplyDelete
I Skyped my oldest son yesterday, and he has one; he paid £25 for his, and gave me an instant demonstration.Delete
I understand from Himself, (who is at this moment decimating my favourite tree, he calls it a little light pruning) that the wood should be brought to a place against the house so that it takes the residual heat from the house to dry it. Next bring the wood inside the house to dry it completely. If it's not dry and you burn it you'll know about it. Trial and error. I'd go down the garden and ask him for the full instructions but I have limbs that I care about!ReplyDelete