It's worth looking closely at the photo above. This tiny kitchen is as basic as one could imagine, there is paint peeling from the walls, and the 'furniture' has been cobbled together in a rather haphazard fashion; including a rather spectacular French antique walnut armoire. Mr and Mrs Ikea would have a bloody fit.
The lady on the left, holding a glass of red wine (the owner of the kitchen), is of course Elizabeth David; one of the most influential post war cookery writers. The kitchen was in her Chelsea house.
I have quite a large collection of cookery books; mostly of the type that one can read in the way one might read a good novel. My mother had only a very few. Her favourite (most often consulted) was a book that came with her new gas cooker in about 1950. It became her cookery bible.
The Radiation New World Cookery Book was issued by 'New World' cookers, and was designed for use with their 'Regulo Gas Cookers'. It was first published in 1927, but my mother had a much later edition. It's a wonderfully old fashioned ENGLISH cookery book, containing all sorts of recipes for dishes that are now rarely eaten.
Her other favourites which she bought more out of interest than practicality were Elizabeth David's 'Mediterranean Food' and 'French Country Cooking'; both books that changed the whole concept of eating in dull post-war Britain.
I can't say that my mother used David's recipes that much, but she certainly adopted some of the attitude; and we always ate very well. When abroad she would search out certain ingredients that David had mentioned in her books. I remember well her returning from Greece with a large (5 litre) wonderfully decorated can of very large green Olives in brine. I think her purchase was a result of reading David's description of Olives as being "As old as the taste of water itself". Olives were still hard to find in the UK.
After we were married, my mother gave Lady M a copy of the Radiation Cookery Book, and wrote a small dedication upside-down on the back page; she'd opened the book the wrong way round. Lady M still uses the book; mostly for cake making. It's not a book I'd really recommend.
Par contre, I'd recommend every single book written by Ms David; especially her wonderful non-recipe book 'An Omelette and a glass of wine'.
I have a huge collection of cookery books, some very old, and a few of my mother's as well. The Elizabeth David book I have is her Mediterranean cookery. I don't use it but flick through now and again. Recently I've been hearing about her biography. That's next on my list to buy
ReplyDeleteShe was an amazing woman; the fact that she wrote about food is simply a bonus.
DeleteI presume you have 3 copies of the Radiation cookbook- mother's was a brown one and we were both given blue ones on leaving home plus the one she gave to Lady Magnon
ReplyDeleteJust the one blue one here, but I think her tattered old brown one may still be in our Brighton loft.
DeleteMy mother had the brown copy of the book. She used it for one thing only, gingerbread. She made the best gingerbread ever.
ReplyDeleteI still think it's good for old fashioned cakes, etc. They usually can't be improved upon.
DeleteFunny that 'back then' olive oil was bought at the chemist in small bottles for ones ears!
ReplyDeleteI remember it; in small thin bottles.
DeleteI've read all ED's books, the biographies, and seen the film - quite moving when they auction off the kitchen utensils and table (whilst in a set of that kitchen)at the end. I wouldn't say I use the recipes, more that I've been influenced in what we eat.
ReplyDeleteI think I have, and have read, most of her work. I think she was probably quite a difficult woman to work with, but her attention to detail is exemplary.
DeletePictured before the Bauhaus influence for fitted kitchens came to prominence. I find all kinds of fascinating things in old photographs when you can zoom in and examine details. It's even better with your own old photographs - details can be as interesting, or even more interesting, than the subject.
ReplyDeleteAunty Maud in the foreground is never as interesting as that medieval barn behind her. I agree totally.
DeleteI had a large collection of cookery books but recently downsized and have just about 24 shelf inches remaining. They are usually to give me ideas. The only book I have that really fits the description of the one's you have is Floyd in France. Those were the days. Fanny Craddock wouldn't get away with it today.
ReplyDeleteI have the Floyd book. I used to have a Craddock book but I just had to chuck it; it was too awful. I suppose it would be a collectors item these days.
DeleteI have the Floyd too. It is my favourite cookery book "read".
DeleteThe New World cookbook was the one my mum also got with her gas cooker. I remember making wonderful shortbread from its recipe. I think it helped win the heart of my husband. :)
ReplyDeleteYes, the cakes, buns, and biscuits are mostly very good.
DeleteI have a huge volume of Mrs Beaton. In the back section of recipes for invalids there is something called 'Toast Water':
ReplyDeleteMake a slice of toast. Place it in a bowl of water and let it soak for a while. Strain, and serve to the invalid.
Cookery books no longer have invalids or nursery sections. There's obviously a niche in the market.
DeleteI plan to market Toast Water.
DeleteToday I get most of my recipes from the Internet, however, I still make dishes from one or two of my old cookbooks. My first one and most used is Home and Garden, 1967 edition. Sometimes simple is best.
ReplyDeleteI find that the older they are, the more complicated they are too. Not so many cooks or servants these days.
DeleteThis is a sweet homage to your sweet Mom. My mom had a cookbook she got as a wedding present, that we used so much that the pages were falling out. When she died in 2011, I got the book, and the pages were so fragile that they almost fell into pieces.
ReplyDeleteYour precious Mom, such joy of life!
My mother's book I refer to above is now in tatters, and is almost unusable. It is filled with notes, scraps of paper with recipes on, and lots of pressed four-leaf-clovers. It belongs in a museum.
DeleteI've read one of Ms David's books but a long time ago. She was impressive.
ReplyDeleteA very courageous woman too. There was nothing she wouldn't do to get hold of some obscure recipe.
DeleteI've a copy of the Omelette book, too. Very readable. I love old kitchens and cookbooks for all the fascinating details. One of my favourite modern books is "Arabella Boxer's Book of English Food" which is full of recipes and background about the glory days of British cuisine, ie: pre-rationing, based on the repertoires of the big country houses.
ReplyDelete